Month: December 2023

The fashion industry is part of everyone’s daily lives, whether we consider it daily or not. For the past few years, I have greatly considered how fashion plays in my life and what that means for my own personal goals to live a more sustainable life. I found myself following trends, buying cheap and trendy clothes, and getting new clothes on a monthly basis. For me, I had not only an interest in fashion but also found myself constantly consuming media feeding me new trends. With the social pressures of college many students want to feel as if they fit in, and fashion plays a large role in how we present ourselves. However, what does that mean for our footprint, and how do we change for a more sustainable future?

In order to improve my carbon footprint, I first had to address how I thought about fast fashion. Breaking away from fast fashion was key to me finding a more sustainable path, and considering how what I buy and consume contributes to the huge sustainability problem of waste. At first I struggled to recognize fast fashion as opposed to my personal style, and I discovered it’s truly more about the individual garment than it is the concept. The best way to figure out if something is fast fashion is considering two factors: (1) versatility and (2) quality. Versatility to me is considering how long I will want to wear this and how often I will wear it. Considering the versatility of a garment combats the overconsumption problem that many of us face. Everyone has been there, where you buy a super cute outfit, and it sits in your closet for months waiting for the ‘perfect occasion’ or ‘perfect outfit’. This is just not a sustainable way to consume, no matter where the garment is sourced from. 

Quality is one of the major contributors to the carbon footprint of clothes. Buying clothes that lose their shape, fall apart, or decline in quality are an easy trap to fall into, and almost always results in far more waste than necessary, around 81.5 lbs per person each year. This is an entirely avoidable problem, if we frame clothes as an investment in quality, rather than a disposable good. We are seeing an epidemic of previously high-quality brands reducing their own quality standards of fabrics. Lululemon is a classic example of a reputable brand that has been swept into the waves of fast fashion. Their leggings are becoming increasingly sheer, and showing signs of increased pilling compared to similar garments made 5 to 10 years earlier, with prices staying in the mid-luxury range. Companies like this can be deceiving, so it’s important to do your research before deciding to purchase. 

Transitioning to slow fashion doesn’t have to be hard, and certainly doesn’t have to be expensive. Consider your clothes a one time investment. First consider why you want something, is it trendy or do you need it? I like to consider if I would have worn it 5 years ago and if I see myself wearing it in 5 years. This does not have to mean keeping your closet simple or basic. Find your own personal style and buy items that suit it. However when choosing items consider the quality, check for loose strings or holes and consider 100% fabrics or synthetic fibers as opposed to fabrics mixed with spandex or polyester that might be less flattering and less durable. Second hand doesn’t mean better if you still continue over consuming, so focus on building your dream closet, not TikTok’s dream closet. Find quality clothes that will stand the test of time, and that you will continue to love for years. 

The fashion industry will not be fixed overnight, as there are a myriad of problems. However, we can each work to reduce our own footprints in order to combat a much larger issue, while changing the narrative in what quality and standards we expect from brands. The industry is fueled by its consumers, and while the weight of all of fashion’s carbon footprint should not rest on our individual shoulders, I have found that each individual can have a small impact on the industry and most importantly those around us. 

Sources:

“Exposing the Truth about Lululemon.” Her Campus | Created for Gen Z, By Gen Z., 17 Feb. 2021, www.hercampus.com/school/western/exposing-truth-about-lululemon/.

Igini, Martina. “10 Concerning Fast Fashion Waste Statistics.” Earth.Org, 21 Aug. 2023, earth.org/statistics-about-fast-fashion-waste/.

“The Myth of Sustainable Fashion.” Harvard Business Review, 14 Jan. 2022, hbr.org/2022/01/the-myth-of-sustainable-fashion.

“Slow Fashion: How to Keep Your Favourite Clothes for Ever – from Laundering to Moth-Proofing.” The Guardian, Guardian News and Media, 1 Aug. 2019, www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/aug/01/slow-fashion-how-to-keep-your-favourite-clothes-for-ever-from-laundering-to-moth-proofing#:~:text=Know%20your%20fabrics&text=If%20you%20have%20two%20identical,cotton%20or%20100%25%20merino%20wool.

 

The fight to end climate change has been on the minds of Americans and people worldwide for decades. Many people are conscious of and support the integration of policies to combat climate change. Pew Research Center found that over half of U.S. adults view climate change as a major threat to the country’s well being. However, things have only gotten worse and change is not happening quick enough despite support. How could this be? I’d like to argue it’s because we have taken the wrong perspective. The fight to end climate change is often framed as follows: We must save the earth for ourselves, for our own survival and prosperity. We are still at the forefront of this battle. It’s not about the earth winning, it’s about us winning. This mindset is harmful because it will never bring about the desired results. In order for real, impactful change to occur, we need to have a personal connection to the earth. Viewing the earth solely as a resource won’t cut it. I believe it’s necessary and possible for our mindset to change. So, what perspective should we hold? Indigenous leaders and thinkers across the United States provide us with some possible answers.

The typical indigenous mind views our relationship to the earth in a much different way than the typical western mind. Emphasis is placed on reciprocity and respect. Indigenous peoples tend to look at nature and our place in it much more holistically. Terms such as “Mother Earth” imply our inherent kinship to the earth.

An important value present in almost all Native American cultures is that of reciprocity. We receive gifts so we must give gifts back. Robin Wall Kimmerer, a Potawatomi professor and author, speaks on this in her book Braiding Sweetgrass. Kimmerer recalls being a child and picking wild strawberries deep in the woods. These strawberries were a gift from the earth. She didn’t have to do anything to receive these strawberries; she only had to find them. Because these strawberries were so freely given to her, it created a relationship between her and the strawberry bush. Every season, she would nurture the bushes and pick weeds to allow space for the bushes to flourish. Year after year their relationship would go like this. This is reciprocity. The plants keep us going so we keep the plants going. This give and receive mindset is necessary in the realm of conservation because it establishes a relationship. In our modern day society we are all too often disconnected from where our products come from, especially our food. Sticking to our strawberry example, when you buy strawberries from the grocery store, no relationship is established. You pay the clerk, say thank you, and move on with your day. The strawberry bush rarely ever crosses our minds. The strawberries are no longer a gift. They are a commodity, and thus no responsibility is owed towards the bush. We have no direct connection to the earth and therefore it’s hard for us to really be invested or care. A formed bond is what makes an exchange significant and meaningful.

Now, it would be unreasonable to ask of us to stop buying our food from the grocery store and instead forage or grow everything. That is not a possibility. I would argue for simple steps, such as learning where our produce comes from when we buy it at the grocery store. Where was this lettuce grown? Who grew it? Under what conditions and in what season was it grown? With a mindset like this we can begin to appreciate and be thankful for how this lettuce ultimately ended up in our hands. We can even go to local farmer’s markets for our produce and interact with the farmers face to face. Although small, this begins to establish in our minds and hearts more of a connection to the earth. This connection fosters our initiative to protect, preserve, and give back to the earth.

 

Another solution to this disconnect is presented to us in a 2020 TEDx talk by Kelsey Leonard, a legal scholar and a member of the Shinnecock nation, who encourages us to ask the question “Who is water?” as opposed to “What is water?” This distinction, she says, opens up the door to personifying water. And she isn’t just talking semantics. Leonard doesn’t want us to simply imagine water as kin (although she does emphasize the significance of this); Rather, she wants it to become a reality. She calls for the legal personhood of water. Legal personhood would allow water to be visible in a court of law and be protected under the law the same as a person would. “It reverses the accepted hierarchy of humanity’s domination over nature,” she claims. If we, as Leonard suggests, hold nature’s wellbeing to the same level of wellbeing we expect for humans, there would be much more concern and protection. All it takes is some reframing in our own minds and in that of the legal system. When we view nature as family rather than a separate entity that we can use at our own discretion, the level of care increases dramatically.

I encourage everyone who reads this to consider how they view the earth. Do you see it merely as an expendable resource or as a life-giving gift worthy of veneration? Furthermore, how might this perspective influence how you view climate change and your own actions towards reversing it? Get outside and experience the beauty of nature. Witness the gifts the earth gives us every single day. Begin to deeply understand our connection to the earth and how vital it is to protect. In the words of Robin Wall Kimmerer, “Knowing that you love the earth changes you, activates you to defend and protect and celebrate. But when you feel that the earth loves you in return, that feeling transforms the relationship from a one-way street into a sacred bond.” The earth has loved us since our existence, it’s time we show some love back. This is the kind of attitude needed in order to save this beautiful planet we call home. 

References:

Kimmer, Robin W. “The Gift of Strawberries.” Braiding Sweetgrass, Milkweed Editions, Minneappolis, MN, 2020, pp. 22–28. 

Tyson, Alec. “What the Data Says about Americans’ Views of Climate Change.” Pew Research Center, Pew Research Center, 9 Aug. 2023, www.pewresearch.org/short-reads/2023/08/09/what-the-data-says-about-americans-views-of-climate-change/#:~:text=About%20three%2Dquarters%20of%20Americans,the%20effects%20of%20climate%20change. 

Zomorodi, Manoush, et al. “Kelsey Leonard: What If Lakes and Rivers Had Legal Rights?” NPR, NPR, 7 Aug. 2020, www.npr.org/2020/08/07/899837395/kelsey-leonard-what-if-lakes-and-rivers-had-legal-rights. 

In September of this year, it was announced that the Biden-Harris Administration was going to launch the American Climate Corps. This is in an effort to put more than 20,000 young people on career paths to help with clean energy, conservation, and climate resilience. Specific jobs within the corps can include managing forests, helping to cut energy bills for low income families, and restoring coastal wetlands. This is very similar to the Peace Corps, established in the 1960’s, because its goal is to provide help in specific communities, however, the Climate Corps is more direct to climate issues while also helping those in underserved communities. This program was put in place to also help contribute to the Justice40 Initiative. This is a goal to make 40% of benefits from certain federal investments go toward communities most burdened by climate change. While the Climate Corps will lead to progress in addressing the climate crisis, there has been some criticism. The idea was first mentioned by Biden at the beginning of his time in office and has now taken years to finally launch. The organization is also going to be at a smaller scale than what was originally hoped when it was first proposed. That said, this is still a win for addressing the climate crisis and allowing for more people to get involved.

This is a very crucial movement towards a better climate future because it directly involves getting younger generations to be a part of the sustainability movement. Instead of relying on individuals to make changes to their habits, this allows for people to really get involved and make an impact. It’s often hard to find specific programs that people with any kind of skill set can join to help with the climate crisis, but this corps targets young people with any skills ready to help. The organization is making an effort to create a diverse working space. As stated in the Forbes article on the American Climate Corps, “the American Climate Corps would not mirror FDR’s Civilian Conservation Corps in all respects, which almost exclusively employed white males and focused on rural communities.” They are prioritizing goals from previous corporations while also improving it.

You could compare the Greenbelt Community to this organization as they both target climate involvement for young people, just on a much smaller scale. Of course, it doesn’t compare on the level of change that is created climate-wise, but keeps similar goals in mind. The Greenbelt also promotes future participation in sustainable programs in addition to personal sustainable improvement. We are able to see how climate involvement works in communities, work on our own contributions, and get educated on sustainable practices. This sets us up well to join programs such as the Climate Corps and spread awareness about the program. While we aren’t necessarily able to join the Climate Corps right now, programs like it and the Peace Corps are great opportunities for people interested in environmental and sustainability issues for after college.

 

About, www.peacecorps.gov/about/. Accessed 1 Dec. 2023. 

“Fact Sheet: Biden-Harris Administration Launches American Climate Corps to Train Young People in Clean Energy, Conservation, and Climate Resilience Skills, Create Good-Paying Jobs and Tackle the Climate Crisis.” The White House, The United States Government, 20 Sept. 2023, www.whitehouse.gov/briefing-room/statements-releases/2023/09/20/fact-sheet-biden-harris-administration-launches-american-climate-corps-to-train-young-people-in-clean-energy-conservation-and-climate-resilience-skills-create-good-paying-jobs-and-tackle-the-clima/. 

“Justice40 Initiative.” The White House, The United States Government, 29 Nov. 2023, www.whitehouse.gov/environmentaljustice/justice40/. 

Technology, Energy Innovation: Policy and. “The American Climate Corps Will Put Thousands to Work Building a Stronger Country.” Forbes, Forbes Magazine, 25 Sept. 2023, www.forbes.com/sites/energyinnovation/2023/09/24/the-american-climate-corps-will-put-thousands-to-work-building-a-stronger-country/?sh=db494027cb44.

The fast fashion industry is a huge problem in the United States. But what is it? Fast fashion is described as clothes that are trendy for the time but are designed to not last long and fall apart easily so that the consumer has to buy more (L. Payne 40). Sophia Han describes it, saying that “the very purpose of fast fashion is to pump out new designs and get rid of the old, it encourages consumers to abandon products after only a few wears, solely because it is ‘out of style’” (15). There are many problems with this, both environmentally and socially, making this a sustainability issue.

On the environmental side of fast fashion, pollutants are emitted every step of the way in the fashion manufacturing process. Nidhi et al. discuss a few of the environmental problems that fast fashion creates. They write that “the apparel business is acknowledged as one of the most polluting due to its high energy and water consumption, usage of chemicals, and worker abuse” (7). The textile manufacturing process generates chemical pollution, water pollution, and CO2 emissions and as the fast fashion industry becomes increasingly popular, these pollutants only grow, and environmental health worsens.

There are lots of benefits to thrifting. It helps the environment by not buying new clothes and reusing discarded ones and provides affordable clothing to those in need. I personally enjoy thrifting a lot. I now solely buy clothing from thrift stores, other secondhand opportunities, and sustainable sites. It can be difficult to find what you need sometimes, but for general clothing shopping I find it very useful. I also get a little boost of confidence whenever I purchase a thrift that I am helping the environment by diverting something that would be waste. I also do not throw away my clothing at the first sign of wear and tear. Mending clothing and following the tag recommendations of items is a good way to keep clothing intact and with you for the long haul.

Another way to sustainably purchase clothing is to shop locally. This more so tackles the social problems with fast fashion. Fast fashion industries like H&M, GAP, and more famously, Shein historically exploit their workers for the fashion industry. Han explores this exploitation, saying that over 540 workers for fast fashion companies such as H&M and GAP have reported being threatened and harassed in their workplace. Han also comments on the abuse from Shein. “Consumers have found messages embedded in their SHEIN tags, reading ‘Help me,’ ‘Send Help,’ ‘SOS,’ ‘I have dental pain,’ and ‘Need your help.’ SHEIN denies all claims of cries of help by attributing these concerning messages to mistranslations.” (2). Despite these abusive practices, fast fashion continues to be a major industry. Karan Khurana S. S. Muthu also write about the disparity between the price of fast fashion and the wage of the employees creating it. “The Clean Clothes Campaign in their research found that the workers’ wages represent only a fraction of what consumers pay for the clothes” (296). Shopping locally means that the clothes you buy do not have this abuse tied to them. The clothing was made locally and not by low-income communities that suffer mistreatment.

Thrifting and buying locally can easily be implemented in everyone’s life. And if not that, simply looking into how the clothing you purchase was manufactured and how sustainable the process is can contribute to sustainability efforts. It may not be the solution to all the clothes in one’s closet, but if the majority of everyone’s clothing was bought in a sustainable way, the fast fashion industry may become obsolete and could positively impact the environment and social equity.

 

All the photos feature all clothing that I have thrifted or gotten second hand another way.

Han, Sophia. “Shein: Shady or Savvy?” Teen Ink, vol. 37, no. 7, Apr. 2023, pp. 14–15. EBSCOhost, search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=f5h&AN=162986249&site=ehost-live. 

Khurana, Karan, and S. S. Muthu. “Are Low- and Middle-Income Countries Profiting from Fast Fashion?” Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management, vol. 26, no. 2, Apr. 2022, pp. 289–306. EBSCOhost, https://doi-org.libproxy.furman.edu/10.1108/JFMM-12-2020-0260.  

Nidhi, et al. “The Environmental Price of Fast Fashion.” International Journal of Applied Marketing & Management, vol. 7, no. 2, July 2022, pp. 6–12. EBSCOhost, search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=bth&AN=161368497&site=ehost-live. 

Payne, Leah. “Don’t Fall for Fast Fashion: PROBLEMS WITH–AND SOLUTIONS TO–OUR SHOPPING ADDICTION.” Alive: Canada’s Natural Health & Wellness Magazine, no. 462, Apr. 2021, pp. 39–44. EBSCOhost, search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=awh&AN=149793862&site=ehost-live.